2002 SOHC, V6, 4L: PCV p/n: EV-243
on the PCV valve, books show a simple "classic" style about $2.50 ea. in reality, pulled off the back of the driver's-side valve cover next to the brake's master cylinder looks like a "breather valve". is there a performance issue of the plastic valve over the older style PCV valves?
What book are you looking at? Just wondering because on the job 2 ST engines the PCV valve actually has conection for cooling lines to hook up on. Most run about $20-$30. You can just put a regular PCV valve in there, but you will have to connect the two cooling hoses together. Todd Z has done it that way. :wink:
PCV valve
What book are you looking at? Just wondering because on the job 2 ST engines the PCV valve actually has conection for cooling lines to hook up on. Most run about $20-$30. You can just put a regular PCV valve in there, but you will have to connect the two cooling hoses together. Todd Z has done it that way. :wink:
Yeah, the part is a V371 (Standard Parts) instead of the mfg EV-243 in the spec manual. Part used to cost $30, now $16. It had the cooling line wrap connection bent around it. I just didn't know that it is a twist in with threads to stay mounted in the valve cover. I had the same PCV for over 230,000 miles and just changed it and didn't know what, if any, performance improvement was possible.
It has clips that release when it is twisted. They will lock when turned in. So it doesn't have threads. You may see some performance depending on how bad your old one is. When you take it out, shake it. The inside should rattle freely. Most with that mileage will rattle, but not real well. Your engine will be able to breath better. Not that you will notice it. :grin:
Thanks. did a little rattle. "Breath better. Not that you will notice it." = Won't run/sound different, BUT? may have better MPG?
You may see it. But I always tell everyone, there is no cure all for better MPG than just keep your foot out of it. Keep the RPM's below 2500 and you will see an improvement. All the "performance" upgrade parts out there will only give a few MPG. The problem is that you can't keep your foot out of it. It's to much fun. :grin:
The ST isn't made for MPG. It's heavy, non-aerodynamic, and (in my opinion) underpowered. It just isn't going to get great MPG's.
what is the pcv and what does it do?
what is the pcv and what does it do?
The Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve, or PCV valve, is a one-way valve that ensures continual evacuation of gases from inside a gasoline internal combustion engine's crankcase. (Wikipedia descrip).
Keeps the pressure between the two valve covers even and recycles the "semi-combusted" gas from the top of the valve covers back through the Air Intake back into the engine for re-detonation--kind of a minimum emissions attempt.
makes perfect sense to me
where is the valve located? and did you ever notice some positives in replacing it?
It is located on the rear of the valve cover on the driver's side. It has a big hose connected to it in the middle, and one connected to a line that runs around it. :wink:
is there a way to clean it out, or should I say is this part on the list of cleaning??
new one costs about $16.00 at CarQuest
is there a way to clean it out, or should I say is this part on the list of cleaning??
I would be hard pressed to be able to clean it out for less than $16.00 (a new one), when you can't see the embedded hinge on the valve cover (inside) and know whether it is strained, or contaminated, or distressed. I know I was anxious after 231,000 miles of never having changed it because of the odd appearance and installation/de-installation process uncertainty, that I was glad to get a new one for $16.00 and forget about the rest.
I also did the "Seafoam" process cleaning and was delighted with the result. I run Mobile 1 only, with Lucas Oil Stabilizer and "Gold" K&N Oil filter and had very little valve deposit/buildup--hence very light smoke. 1st time took 5 oz.'s, towards the last tablespoon of uptake, stalled it--let it soak for 7 minutes, restart, a little rough then throttle drove smooth (idle and throttled). Drove it for 2 miles hard, then did it again right away, engine wouldn't even stall down to the last drop--had to turn it off at the ignition to let the residual (if any) soak the saturation valves/covers/etc. Runs very smooth now--will do this just about every oil change. I also pulled off the EGR and IAC and cleaned them out with throttle body cleaner, the IAC was packed with Carbon powder--went shiney silver clean. EGR had some contam. as well and seemed cleaner. All runs great even after 232,000 miles.
yeah man that seafoam stuff works very well. what is the EGR and IAC?
EGR= "Exhaust Gas Recirculation" valve
IAC= "Idle Air Control" valve
Both of these will cause rough idle. Most common is the IAC valve. It is located by the Throttle Body under the cover on the driver's side and is held down by two bolts. You clean it with carb cleaner and a Q-Tip. Put a drop of high temp oil on the valve itself and put it back on. I don't have any pics of it.